vitamin a

The first thing that struck me on returning to SF from Japan yesterday was just how dirty and lacking in modern infrastructure American cities are.  (Then the power went out on my block for several hours to underscore that point)  My first realization in Japan on the other hand was that singing "damn it feels good to be a gaigin" to the tune of the Geto Boys song is considered to be in very poor taste. Luckily karaoke booths were open 24-hours and included all-you-can-drink alcohol (and shockingly vast song collections, with bands like the bird and the bee and the pixies as well as everything you'd expect).  

I very much liked my brush with Japanese culture, especially the politeness, consideration for others over self, and pervasive cuteness (kawaii).  I was surprised at the friendliness I encountered and the length many took to overcome language barriers to welcome, accommodate, and educate outsiders.  Real conversation was difficult to come by however, though some knowledge of English is pervasive, it is generally limited and not flowing or conversational.  I spent some time with a friend of a friend who teaches English there, she had a Japanese boyfriend who spoke English well.  He was able to negotiate us two hours of nomihodai (all-you-can-drink) for Y1100 (around $9) so long as everyone in our party ordered food.  Apparently it is a common thing as is haggling in general, even at the amazing electronic stores, but not for outsiders.  I think that restaurant in particular tired of the strain we were putting on the wait staff, after several quick rounds I was brought a highball glass filled straight with Suntory whiskey, to prevent the need for further orders.  It's no wonder I saw quite a few older salarymen in suits, piss drunk, arms dangling, faces smiling, being carried between bars by younger underlings on a Friday night in Shibuya.

I think, were I to live in Japan with my currently non-existent language skills, there is a great deal I would miss out on.  Still, I would love an opportunity to immerse myself there for a year.

I spent time in Tokyo, Osaka, Nara, and Kyoto.  All were distinct and beautiful.  Tokyo is a mind-blowing city awash in luxury and culture.  Though I understandably geeked out beyond belief at the electronic stores (they make Fry's look like a kwiki mart, there's nothing here to compare them to), I was most excited to find a 9-floor music store filled with a drool-worthy collection of obscure music and vinyl pressings from around the world and friendly people.  I described my tastes and they played some amazing Japanese psych and eclectic folk music for me with female vocals, contemporary and from the 60's, some of which I brought home (with no English to be found so I don't even know the names) along with things like early-70's mint Japanese pressings of Beatles records and from Osaka, things like first German pressings of Stereo Total albums and first UK pressings of My Bloody Valentine albums.  We've got it good here with Amoeba but holy shit.  (Amusingly, there is an Ameeba records in Osaka with the exact same logo as our Amoeba minus the typo, no actual relation)  Osaka could be the Japanese equivalent to SF or Portland.

From what I saw of Nara, it is a quiet historic town, Japan's ancient capitol full of temples and greenery with deer roving around.  Though they live on temple grounds, they appear to roam the town freely at night and are friendly to people.  I'd never petted deer that walked right up to me before.

Kyoto is one of the most beautiful places I've been to, full of bamboo forests, Buddhist and Shinto temples, moss and Zen rock gardens and varied animal life within the city.  The majority of the outdoors and temple photos are from the Kyoto region.  You can see a few more than what's in the post here.

Will I actually motivate myself to wake up at 5am to breakfast at the Tokyo fish market?  Would a $100 mango really blow my dang mind?  All I know is, I'm excited.  I hope to spend equal time in Kyoto and possibly further flung areas as in Tokyo and should be getting a pair of travel books today.  A month to plan.. and figure out where the japanemo bands play.